GUTHRIE , thirty miles north of downtown Oklahoma City on I-35, was the capital from statehood in 1907 until 1911. Today the 1400-acre Guthrie Historical District forms a remarkably complete collection of tastefully restored Victorian architecture. The State Capitol Publishing Museum , 301 W Harrison Ave (Tues-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 1-4pm; donation), exhibits printing technology dating back to the earliest newspaper printed in Oklahoma Territory. The ornate Doric Scottish Rite Masonic Temple , 900 E Oklahoma Ave, is the largest Masonic complex in the world, featuring hundreds of bright stained-glass windows (tours Mon-Fri 10am & 2pm, Sat 10am; $5). Guthrie is also home to the Lazy E Arena , four miles east of downtown, a huge site which hosts world champion rodeos and roping competitions, as well as big-name concerts (tel 405/282-3004).

Guthrie has several good B&Bs , including the Haunted Stone Lion Inn , 1016 W Warner Ave (tel 405/282-0012; $75-100), a 1907 Victorian mansion with clean rooms and antique claw-footed tubs. The Harrison House , 124 W Harrison Ave (tel 405/282-1000 or 1-800/375-1001; $75-100), is larger than most B&Bs but still charming and is housed in Guthrie's first bank building. Cheaper is the Townhouse Motel , 223 E Oklahoma Ave (tel 405/260-2400; $35-50). The Blue Belle Saloon , 224 W Harrison, is Oklahoma's oldest saloon and boasts that Tom Mix tended bar here before going on to Hollywood fame. The visitor center is at 212 W Oklahoma Ave (tel 405/282-1947 or 1-800/299-1889, ).